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1 Binding Cloths
Bookbinder's cloth of muslin character. Dyed and embossed. Very stiffly finished. There are many qualities, varying from 48 X 42 per inch up to 72 X 60. The fabric itself is merely a plain weave, and the special finish gives the cloth its name. -
2 Binding
When two separate fabrics are woven together in the loom and are to be joined, the process is termed binding. Any thread which is used to bind or hold these two cloths together is termed a binding thread. This can be done by lifting a warp thread from the back cloth, over a face cloth pick, and lifting the face cloth threads on each side. Another method is to use an extra warp which weaves under the back cloth picks and over the face cloth picks, and is thus so covered, that it is not seen. -
3 Binding Warp
BINDER, or BINDING WARPThe back warp of double cloths. The interior warp of pile fabrics, used to bind the pile threads together. These warps also impart strength and stiffness to the fabrics, especially when used in costume cloths of wool or silk. They are mostly cotton yarn. -
4 Toilet Cloths
TOILET CLOTHS, TOILETINGSTerms applied to a number of fabrics such as bed quilts or counterpanes, dressing-table covers, and connote a distinctive type of fabric, the chief feature of which is a face cloth in the plain weave, stitched down according to a prearranged design by means of a tightly-woven binding warp. This causes the figure to stand out in relief, and this feature is enhanced when wadding weft is used. Many qualities are made, including loose-backs, e.g., those in which the tight figuring threads float at the back when not forming figure; half-fast backs in which the figuring threads are partly bound by interlacing with some back picks; and fast backs, in which there is a back pick for every card so that the figuring ends are well bound at the back, usually in the plain weave. The cloths are known as 2-pick, 3-pick, 4-pick, 5-pick and 6-pick toilets according to the number of picks inserted at each figuring shed. -
5 Wadded Cloths
Fabrics in which an extra warp or weft is introduced to add weight and bulk. Warp wadding is most used because it is the most economical and is usually coarser and cheaper than the face or back warps. The wadding threads lie between the two fabrics and the binding intersections are limited to the minimum and placed so as not to be seen on either face or back. -
6 tela de encuadernación
(n.) = book-cloth, binding clothEx. A great variety of book-cloths was manufactured and used from 1830 to 1850 (though no more than a few types of grain were really common) and the description of patterns is notoriously difficult.Ex. Before considering the development of cloth binding styles, we may pause to establish methods of describing the colours and grains of binding cloths.* * *(n.) = book-cloth, binding clothEx: A great variety of book-cloths was manufactured and used from 1830 to 1850 (though no more than a few types of grain were really common) and the description of patterns is notoriously difficult.
Ex: Before considering the development of cloth binding styles, we may pause to establish methods of describing the colours and grains of binding cloths. -
7 Book Muslin
A very light cotton fabric of gauze weave, one end crossing one. Stiff finished. Used as binding cloths by bookbinders, also as linings for cheap clothing. The term is also applied to a coarse leno cloth shipped to India, about 351/2-in. wide. 10 yards long, 36 X 28 per inch, from 32's/16's, and bleached and finished stiffly (see Binding Cloth) -
8 Double Plains
A combination of two plain cloths woven together. The cloths are bound together by changing places. For convenience one cloth may be called the face and the other the back cloth, but both cloths appear both on the back and the face of the double texture. Where the cloths change places are the only binding points, and the interchange of the two cloths forms the pattern. Double plains were formerly much used for vestings and suitings in both cotton and wool. Other constructions include fancy dress materials, and the illustration shows a double plain in which a yellow cloth interchanges with a blue cloth. Both cloths have 30's warp and weft, but the yellow has 88 ends and 88 picks per inch, while the blue has only 44 ends and 44 picks. The reverse side of the fabric is exactly opposite to that illustrated.
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9 Binder
BINDER, or BINDING WARPThe back warp of double cloths. The interior warp of pile fabrics, used to bind the pile threads together. These warps also impart strength and stiffness to the fabrics, especially when used in costume cloths of wool or silk. They are mostly cotton yarn. ———————— A sewing machine attachment by means of which a binding is applied to the edge of a fabric. -
10 Quilt
QUILT, QUILTEDOriginally a term applied to a cushion, bed, mattress or bedcover that was quilted by putting wadding between two cloths and stitching the two cloths together. The stitching can be arranged to form pattern in addition to binding the two cloths together. " Quilts " is now a general term, and includes the bedcovers known as Alhambra, Broche, Grecian, Honeycomb, Marseilles, Mitcheline, Tapestry and Terry. -
11 Quilted
QUILT, QUILTEDOriginally a term applied to a cushion, bed, mattress or bedcover that was quilted by putting wadding between two cloths and stitching the two cloths together. The stitching can be arranged to form pattern in addition to binding the two cloths together. " Quilts " is now a general term, and includes the bedcovers known as Alhambra, Broche, Grecian, Honeycomb, Marseilles, Mitcheline, Tapestry and Terry. -
12 δέω
δέω 3 sg. pres. δεῖται (Ath. 21, 3); fut. δήσω LXX; 1 aor. ἔδησα, subj. δήσω; pf. ptc. δεδεκώς Ac 22:29. Pass.: 1 aor. inf. δεθῆναι 21:33; pf. δέδεμαι (Hom.+)① to confine a pers. or thing by various kinds of restraints, bind, tieⓐ of things τὶ someth. 1 Cl 43:2; τὶ εἴς τι (Ezk 37:17): tie weeds in bundles Mt 13:30. τί τινι (cp. Ezk 27:24): τοὺς πόδας κειρίαις J 11:44. ἔδησαν (τὸ σῶμα) ὀθονίοις μετὰ τῶν ἀρωμάτων they bound (the corpse) in linen cloths with spices 19:40.ⓑ of binding and imprisoning pers. δ. τινὰ ἁλύσεσι (cp. Lucian, Necyom. 11; Wsd. 17:16) bind someone w. chains, of a possessed person Mk 5:3f; of prisoners (PLips 64, 58) Ac 12:6; 21:33; Taubenschlag, Op. Min. II 722f. Also simply δ. τινά (Judg 16:5, 7f) Mt 12:29 (cp. TestLevi 18:12); 14:3; 27:2; Mk 3:27; 15:1; J 18:12; Ac 9:14; 21:11, 13; 22:29; B 6:7 (Is 3:10). (τοὺς) πόδας καὶ (τὰς) χεῖρας bind hand and foot (the acc. as Jos., Ant. 19, 294) Mt 22:13; Ac 21:11; δ. τινὰ ἐν φυλακῇ bind someone (and put him) in prison (4 Km 17:4) Mk 6:17. Pass. (Biogr. p. 238) δέδεμαι be bound, i.e., a prisoner 15:7. κατέλιπε δεδεμένον leave behind as a prisoner Ac 24:27 (δεδεμένος=in prison, as Diog. L. 2, 24 of Socrates); ἀπέστειλεν δ. J 18:24. Cp. Col 4:3; IEph 1:2 al. in Ignatius. Παύλου δεδεμένου AcPl Ha 2, 1. δέδεμαι ἐν τῷ ὀνόματι be a prisoner because of the name (=being a Christian) IEph 3:1. Also δ. ἐν Ἰησοῦ Χριστῷ ITr 1:1; IRo 1:1. δεδεμένον ἄγειν τινά bring someone as prisoner (Jos., Bell. 7, 449) Ac 9:2, 21; 22:5; cp. IRo 4:3. Pass. δ. ἀπάγεσθαι IEph 21:2; δ. θεοπρεπεστάτοις δεσμοῖς bound w. chains that befit God’s majesty (i.e. through his bondage Ignatius displays his total devotion to God, s. IEph 3:1 above) ISm 11:1; δ. ἢ λελυμένος a prisoner or one (recently) freed 6:2.—Fig. ὁ λόγος τ. θεοῦ οὐ δέδεται God’s message cannot be imprisoned (though the speaker can) 2 Ti 2:9.—Mid. (s. L-S-J-M s.v. δέω A, II) οὐκ ἔξεστί μοι δήσασθαι αὐτό (viz. τὸ κεφαλοδέσμιον) I am not allowed to put on the headscarf GJs 2:2 (vv.ll. ἀναδήσασθαι and περιδήσασθαι).—A metaphorical use derived from ancient perceptions of illness explains the expr. ἣν ἔδησεν ὁ σατανᾶς whom Satan had bound of a deformed woman Lk 13:16 (cp. SIG 1175, 14ff; 32–35 Ἀριστὼ ἐγὼ ἔλαβον καὶ ἔδησα τὰς χεῖρας καὶ τοὺς πόδας καὶ τὴν γλῶσσαν καὶ τὴν ψυχήν). For another transcendent binding cp. δεδεμένος τῷ πνεύματι bound by the Spirit Ac 20:22 (similar imagery, perh., in Apollon. Rhod. 4, 880 ἀμηχανίη δῆσεν φρένας ‘perplexity bound his mind’).—On the binding of the dragon Rv 20:2 s. JKroll, Gott u. Hölle ’32, esp. 316ff; Tob 8:3; TestLevi 18:12.② to tie someth. to someth., tie to an animal (4 Km 7:10) Mt 21:2; Mk 11:2, 4 (πρὸς θύραν); Lk 19:30; angels Rv 9:14. δ. δέκα λεοπάρδοις tied to ten leopards (on the language: Soph., Aj. 240 κίονι δήσας = πρὸς κίονα 108; cp. Jos., Ant. 18, 196) IRo 5:1 v.l.— Fasten someth. (ParJer 7:35 τὴν ἐπιστολὴν εἰς τὸν τράχηλον τοῦ ἀέτου) a linen cloth at its four corners Ac 10:11 v.l.③ to constrain by law and duty, bind w. dat. of pers. to someone: of a wife to her husband Ro 7:2; of a husband to his wife 1 Cor 7:27 (for the form cp. Posidippus [III B.C.]: Anth. Pal. 9, 359, 5f ἔχεις γάμον; οὐκ ἀμέριμνος ἔσσεαι• οὐ γαμέεις; ζῇς ἔτʼ ἐρημότερος=You are married? You won’t be without cares. You remain unmarried? You’ll live still lonelier.). Abs. vs. 39 (cp. Achilles Tat. 1, 11, 2 v.l. ἄλλῃ δέδεμαι παρθένῳ; Iambl., Vi. Pyth. 11, 56 τὴν μὲν ἄγαμον … τὴν δὲ πρὸς ἄνδρα δεδεμένην); τοῖς λαϊκοῖς προστάγμασιν be bound by the rules for the people (those without official duties) 1 Cl 40:5.④ The combination δ. καὶ λύειν bind and loose (Ael. Aristid. 40, 7 K.=5 p. 55 D. of Prometheus: ὅσα δήσειεν ὁ Ζεύς, ταῦτʼ ἐξὸν Ἡρακλεῖ λῦσαι; 41, 7 K.; Teleclides Com. [V B.C.] Fgm. 42 K. δέω—ἀναλύω) is found Mt 16:19; 18:18. On the meaning δέω has here cp. J 20:22f (cp. 1QH 13:10). Another interpretation starts fr. the rabbinic viewpoint. Aram. אֲסַר and שְׁרָא are academic language for the decision of the rabbis as to what was to be regarded as ‘bound’ (אֲסִיר), i.e. forbidden, or ‘loosed’ (שְׁרֵי), i.e. permitted; s. Dalman, Worte 175ff; Billerb. I 738–47. Binding and loosing in magical practice are emphasized by WKöhler, ARW 8, 1905, 236ff; ADell, ZNW 15, 1914, 38ff. S. also VBrander, Der Katholik 94, 1914, 116ff; KAdam, Gesammelte Aufsätze ’36, 17–52; JMantey, JBL 58, ’39, 243–49; HCadbury, ibid. 251–54 (both on J 20:23; Mt 16:19; 18:18).—B. EDNT. DELG s.v. δέω 1. M-M. TW. -
13 Automobile Cloaking
Very heavy woollen double cloth, used in America for motor car coats, blankets and wraps. The fabric is simply two cloths in twill weaves, stitched together in the loom by a cotton warp. The face cloth may differ in colour from the back. Usually China wool is used as the large amount of kemp it contains, gives an appearance to the cloth not obtainable any other way. Woven about 30 ends, 34 picks per inch, 68-in. wide, weighing 34-oz. per yard. Warp yarns are coarse-grade wool, weft yarns usually coarse shoddy. The cotton binding warp is about 2 / 16's and only 2-to 3-ends per inch, so that the two cloths can be separated, if desired. Each cloth is 15 X 17 per inch.Dictionary of the English textile terms > Automobile Cloaking
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14 Toiletings
TOILET CLOTHS, TOILETINGSTerms applied to a number of fabrics such as bed quilts or counterpanes, dressing-table covers, and connote a distinctive type of fabric, the chief feature of which is a face cloth in the plain weave, stitched down according to a prearranged design by means of a tightly-woven binding warp. This causes the figure to stand out in relief, and this feature is enhanced when wadding weft is used. Many qualities are made, including loose-backs, e.g., those in which the tight figuring threads float at the back when not forming figure; half-fast backs in which the figuring threads are partly bound by interlacing with some back picks; and fast backs, in which there is a back pick for every card so that the figuring ends are well bound at the back, usually in the plain weave. The cloths are known as 2-pick, 3-pick, 4-pick, 5-pick and 6-pick toilets according to the number of picks inserted at each figuring shed. -
15 Carpets
The principal types are Axminster, Brussels and Wilton, and brief particulars of each are given below. A more detailed description is given under each name. Axminster is a cut fabric made any width and with any number of colours. It is not produced on a jacquard, therefore the pile does not show on the back. The design is developed by a series of tufts which are bound into the fabric, every tuft is on the surface and only the foundation cloth is seen at the back. There are two principal varieties of these carpets, the Chenille Axminster and the Machine tufted Axminster. The Chenille type is made by two distinct operations, that of manufacturing the chenille weft and that of weaving the carpet with this weft. The " fur or chenille is first woven on an ordinary loom (see chenille) and when cut into the strips is used as weft with a linen, jute or folded cotton warp. The chenille is made preferably with the leno way of shedding in order to bind the wool yarn more firmly. All the figuring weft is on the surface and not embedded in the fabric. The chenille weft is often inserted by hand, but several mechanical methods for doing the work are now in use. From three to six tufts per inch are usual. The chenille Axminster Carpet is also known as the Patent Axminster carpet. The machine-tufted type or Royal Axminster is also formed from pile tufts previously prepared and afterwards woven in the ground warp and bound into the fabric with a binding weft. The tufts may be inserted by hand and the pile is all on the surface of the fabric. This pile is a warp product, whereas for the chenille variety it is weft. Axminster carpets are a product of skill and patience and any number of colours can be used. There are several varieties of machine-made axminster carpets. Wilton is a cut pile fabric woven 27-in. wide from not more than six colours, the yarns are fine counts and design produced by jacquards. Brussels is made almost in the same way as a Wilton, but the pile is not cut and this shows as loops on the face. The yarn is much coarser than for Wiltons. Kidderminster - A carpet made from two or more plain cloths woven together. Each cloth is brought on the face for figuring as required. Turkish - These are hand made. The pile is put into the ground warp by hand as tufts and knotted round them according to pattern. There are two picks of ground weft between each row of pile. Tapestry - Carpets woven from printed warps. The pile is cut or left uncut as required for the design. Persian - Carpets similar to Turkish, being hand made. See also Axminster, Brussels, Kidderminster, Persian Tapestry, Turkish, Wilton Carpets, Body Brussels, Brusselette, Ingrain. -
16 Centre Stitching Warp
A special fine warp used in double cloth structures for binding or stitching the two cloths together. This warp weaves under the back cloth picks and over the face cloth picks. It is so placed that there are ordinary warp threads at each side, which prevent the fine ends being seen.Dictionary of the English textile terms > Centre Stitching Warp
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17 Swivel Spots
Extra weft figuring in the form of spots or other figures produced upon a ground cloth while it is weaving. The swivel figures are woven from separate small shuttles and usually consist of weft floats with the minimum number of binding points, but quite firmly bound at the two extreme edges of the figure. No material is wasted in useless floats between the isolated figures. The swivel weft is frequently silk and many of the cloths are expensive.
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